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We woke on Thursday, April 2nd at Atlantic Yacht Basin to warmer weather, the long‑awaited part for the boat, and a calmer Chesapeake Bay. With genuine relief, we applauded the newly installed gear‑driven raw water pump on the port engine. After returning the rental car and settling our bill, we pointed BenjOllie north and slipped through Norfolk.

Six boats entered Great Bridge Lock at Chesapeake to get us through to Norfolk—BenjOllie was number two—and what should have been a routine passage turned into an unexpected maneuvering drill. The lead sailboat was being driven by a novice who simply couldn’t get tied up. With his engine and bow thruster working overtime, he kept drifting toward us, coming uncomfortably close to crashing into our hull. Thankfully, he missed and eventually managed to secure himself on the opposite wall of the lock, well out of our way.

Once clear of the lock, the rest of the day unfolded easily. We made a smooth two‑hour run to HOSPITAL POINT, next to Portsmouth Naval Hospital and officially mile zero of the ICW. There we anchored for the night, ready to tackle the 100‑plus miles to Colonial Beach over the next two days.

Carey made my favorite loaded hot dogs for dinner, complete with a side of spicy corn, beans, and tomatoes. We ate while taking in the evening views from our anchorage (see photos below). A full moon over the Norfolk skyline and the Battleship Wisconsin with a full display of lights. A peaceful end to a very nice day. Now to bed.

On to WINDMILL POINT MARINA at the bottom of the Rappahannock River. The winds were almost 15 knots but the ride was not unpleasant as we had following seas. It was a 60 mile run so we were ready to stop when we arrived there about 2 PM. We moored quickly as we hadn’t had lunch yet and wanted to check out their Tiki Bar. A pleasant visit as we enjoyed the outdoor seating and a nice lunch. Once back on the boat we made plans for our last day of the trip — tomorrow when we pull into Colonial Beach.

Underway at 7:30 AM Saturday morning we motored up the Chesapeake Bay in 1 foot seas and light wind, turning into the Potomac River 20 miles north of Windmill Point for our 50 mile trek up the River to Colonial Beach. All total it was a 70 mile run that ended with a 3 PM arrival at our old familiar slip. The Boathouse Marina group welcomed us home and helped get us tied up. We truly enjoyed the 5 month trip but realized that we’re advancing in age and some of the chores on a trip like that took a lot more out of us then previous runs over the last 20 years. We’ll see how we feel about another winter trip after a couple days at home. If you have followed along we hope you enjoyed the story. And, we absolutely recommend long cruises to fellow boaters. The journey is definitely as enjoyable as the destinations!

The last four days (Sunday through Wednesday) have been an extended stay at Atlantic Yacht Basin for two reasons. The first involves the pump that needed to be replaced — the wrong pump was shipped over night — not once but twice. Secondly, the winds have been over 20 knot winds on the Chesapeake Bay. Today we rented a car and did a bit of shopping and found a good Japanese restaurant for lunch. Tomorrow will hopefully clear up the issues … the weather is improving and the correct part should arrive. So, we are now wishfully thinking we’ll be underway sometime tomorrow and home on Friday.

Colonial Beach—only 110 miles away from our current spot at Atlantic Yacht Basin. Yahoo.

Working towards Colonial Beach

We slipped out of Beaufort early, aiming for Belhaven. The plan was to anchor in Belhaven Harbor, but when we arrived the wind had kicked up and the idea of rocking and rolling all night lost its charm fast. Instead, we eased into Belhaven Marina and ended up having a great evening catching up with old friends—the marina owner among them—and sharing end‑of‑day drinks with a few fellow boaters. Dinner in town, however, was a swing and a miss. You can’t win them all, and we’ll chalk that one up to experience. A better meal awaits somewhere up the waterway.

What’s Our Plan — Revised
The real debate that night was whether to push on to Coinjock or sit tight and wait out the weather brewing ahead. By the morning of the 26th, Carey and I decided to go for it. The forecast along the East Coast wasn’t exactly friendly, but we also needed to keep making our way home. So at 8:30 AM we pointed the bow north and began the 85‑mile run to Coinjock.
It turned out to be the right call. The weather held, the miles slipped by, and by 5 PM we were tied up quietly in Coinjock—surprisingly the only transient boat there, a rare sight for such a normally busy stop. The next decision loomed: a gale and small‑craft warning were settling in for the coming days. We figured we’d decide after dinner… and what a dinner. Coinjock handed us two fantastic meals, easily the best of the trip so far.
Up early on the 27th, ready to make the day’s call. I walked up to the marina office where everyone was buzzing about the expected gale. The consensus was unanimous: if it arrived at all, it wouldn’t be until after 5 PM. That was all we needed to hear. Start the engines—we’re going.
The 38‑mile run from Coinjock to Atlantic Yacht Basin was exactly the stepping‑stone we needed before Norfolk and the final push toward home. We made the trip in just under four hours and are now moored in Chesapeake, VA.

Unfortunately, a quick check with a mechanic revealed that the port engine’s raw water pump—a gear driven pump lubricated by oil—has a leaking seal. Ouch. No replacement pump readily available and we initially decided to continue on and watch the pump carefully. Cooler heads prevailed this morning the 28th. That pump freezing up could cause damage to the engine. We are not going to risk that event. We are retired and low risk boaters. We’ve now decided to wait here and get the pump replaced before heading to Colonial Beach. So, we must now suffer through more good meals eating out, and some relaxing down time for other activities. Not bad.

For now, we’re watching the weather closely and will move toward CB as soon as the pump is replaced and the weather allows. One thing is clear: becoming a true expert on weather—and having the right resources—has climbed to the top of the list for anyone boating in this time of climate change. Weather is so much more important to our boating pleasure during climate change. A downer though … we’re bringing along unhealthy amounts of devilish yellow oak pollen! It started in South Carolina and keeps floats around up the East Coast.

Below is just one example of the many commercial vessels we share the ICW with on days like this.

314 Stature Miles to Colonial Beach from Beaufort, NC. … getting near home

Two Long Days to Beaufort, NC
We really pushed it this weekend—71 miles on Saturday to reach Wrightsville Beach, the first of two long hauls so we could enjoy a well‑earned two‑day layover in Beaufort, NC. With perfect Saturday weather, the ICW was packed. Every kind of boat was out, and it felt like we were threading a moving obstacle course.
Despite the crowds, we cruised smoothly through three of the ICW’s usual troublemakers—Lockwood’s Folly, Shallotte Inlet, and Carolina Beach—all notorious for shoaling and the dreaded bottom tap. No drama this time, and by 4 PM we were anchored at Wrightsville Beach. The anchorage was lively, to put it mildly. A full‑on Sunday‑Funday crowd kept us rocking until sunset, when the last of the day‑boaters finally peeled away and the water settled into something resembling calm.

Day Two: Wrightsville to Beaufort

We were up early the next morning, anchor up at 7:30 AM for the 85‑mile run to Beaufort. It’s a long, mostly uneventful stretch of the ICW—scenic in its own way but not exactly riveting—and the hours felt every bit as long as the mileage.
Midday we spotted our anchorage neighbor from the night before, but unfortunately not under the best circumstances. He had gone aground at the one shallow spot of the day, New River Inlet. Towboat US was already on the way, thankfully. We felt for him; grounding is never fun, and in skinny water there’s not much another boater can do. You really need a shallow‑draft tow boat to get in close enough to help. We pulled in to Beaufort and moorded safely at 5:00 PM. Later we found that the aground boat got off with minimal damage and safely moored at Beaufort at few docks down from us several hours after our arrival. Good news!

Day Two at Beaufort

We slept late today catching up on some needed sleep. And boy was it cold. The wind was blowing 15 + knots and the temperatures were in the mid 40s. I’m glad we are not out on the water. We used the courtesy car, had a great Italian lunch and Carey picked up some liquor and food at the ABC store and Food Line. We’re ready for the next push. This evening we had neighbors from a nearby sailboat over for drinks, Mike and Lonnie. There are sailing on a Caribbean Sailing Yacht 44′ that they have restored. Mike told the story of its initial purchase and hauling out at Colonia Beach in 2008 or 9 when they put it on a carrier to their home in Ohio to restore and make it ready for the water. Now it sat right next to us and is a beautiful site to see.

A few things stood out over these two long days:

• We saw our first—and so far only—political sign of the trip. Last year they were everywhere. This one was just three words: Dictator or Democracy?
• A guy wearing an M.R. Ducks t‑shirt caught our eye—a favorite waterfront bar in Ocean City, MD and a spot dear to our friends Jack and Ann Southard. Turns out he’s an OC native and a regular there.
• We passed home after home with docks stretching far into the ICW, long enough to reach deep water. Some of these must have cost a small fortune. One in particular was impressive enough to deserve a photo.
• A small fleet of shrimp boats getting ready to work the waterway as we passed—shrimp, anyone.
• And finally, as we arrived in Beaufort, we spotted a Tiki boat just like the one back in Colonial Beach, happily plying its trade here too.

Steamboat Creek to Price Creek
Steamboat Creek bade us farewell, and off we went toward Price Creek—another one of those 45‑mile days we’ve been stringing together—this time through Charleston Harbor. Even though I lived in Charleston for four years, I’ve never been fond of stopping in the harbor, so we kept our eyes forward and cruised right past the big municipal marina. Two massive container ships were working their way through the channel as we crossed, and it was a treat to watch them glide by—at a very safe distance, of course. Once clear of Isle of Palms, we turned toward Price Creek and dropped the hook in what can only be described as serious wind. It was the first anchorage Carey and I have ever done that didn’t end with smiles. The wind and current teamed up on us, pushing our limits more than we expected after hundreds of trouble‑free anchoring’s. But persistence won out, and eventually we settled the boat safely for the night. That glass of wine was well earned.

Onward to Georgetown
Morning brought fresh smiles and a fresh start. We pointed the bow north for another 45‑mile run to Georgetown, SC—and to one of our favorite restaurants, SOCO. It’s southern cooking at its best, served by waitresses with warm smiles and even warmer accents. The day itself was easy: gorgeous weather, calm water, and a relaxed pace. We reached Harbor Walk Marina mid‑afternoon, took a little time to unwind, and then headed to SOCO. I went straight for the fried pork chop; Carey ordered her beloved fried oysters. Just good, honest southern food. A slow walk back to the boat wrapped up the evening and set us up for another day on the water. Found Georgetown over 21 years ago and it’s still one of our favorite stops and marinas. Entire downtown is a historic landmark, and the surrounding homes are stately and lovely. Well worth a trip by land or water.

Waccamaw River to Barefoot Marina
Saturday morning brought a parade of boats—perfect weather and a weekend will do that. We motored up the Waccamaw River, which remains one of the most beautiful stretches of the entire ICW. Towering cypress, quiet bends, and that peaceful, timeless feel you only get on this part of the waterway. Halfway to Barefoot Marina we stopped at Osprey Marina to fill up with diesel. Their prices were still pre-Trump War at $3.59/gal. All other marinas nearby were above $4.50. I filled to the top of our 600-gallon tanks — enough to get us home to Colonial Beach. Yahoo! By mid-afternoon we were tied up at Barefoot Marina in North Myrtle Beach. The young dockhand is from Occoquan and has spent many a weekend in Colonial Beach. Love when that happens. Tomorrow will be a tougher day, but that’s a story for tomorrow.

Today’s Photos
Just the big boys we passed in Charleston Harbor—those container ships that remind you why the law of gross tonnage is not to be trifled with.